Troi Paian path

Troi Paian, the Pagan Trail in Val Gardena, was a connecting route from Valle Isarco to Venice in pre-Christian times, which was rediscovered as a hiking trail.
The Troi Paian leads above Ortisei through the beautiful Rasciesa Forest to Laion.
The Troi Paian leads above Ortisei through the beautiful Rasciesa Forest to Laion.

Tourinfo

Tot. duration
4 h 30 min
Duration asc.
2 h
Duration des.
2 h 30 min
Track
17 m
Altitude asc.
750 m
Altitude des.
1125 m
max. height
1823 m
Difficulty
Condition
Technique
Best season
  • January
  • February
  • March
  • April
  • May
  • June
  • July
  • August
  • September
  • October
  • November
  • December

Introduction

The Troi Paian has a lot to offer: It’s a long and rewarding hike that will captivate more than just history lovers. After the initial climb to Balest, just above S. Giacomo, the path gently winds through the tranquil, shaded forests of Rasciesa in Val Gardena, before descending towards the village of Laion. Along the way, hikers are treated to stunning vistas and, more often than not, enjoy the solitude of this peaceful trail, far from the bustle of busier routes.

Ortisei with forest of Rasciesa Zoom
The Troi Paian runs below the rocks of Balest and then descends through the Rasciesa Forest.
photo

Directions

Coming from the A-22 motorway, take the SS242 to Ortisei. If you choose the shorter option, the hike starts at the Seceda cable car, where the car park is located. For the longer option, you can park your car in the Central parking garage and walk to the parish church of Ortisei, where the hike begins.

Val Gardena is also easily accessible by public transport. Line 350 runs every half hour from Ponte Gardena or Chiusa to Ortisei, where you get off at the Piazza S. Antonio bus stop. The cable car can be reached quickly via the escalator and the ‘La Curta’ tunnel from Piazza S. Antonio.

Description

Stage 1: Ortisei to the Chiesa di S. Giacomo

Note: The longer variant can also be shortened slightly. To do this, take the city bus (small green bus) to S. Giacomo, which also departs from Piazza S. Antonio.

Particularly enduring hikers can start directly from Ortisei. From the Ortisei Parish Church, follow Sacun Street, which leads uphill to S. Giacomo. After just 150 metres, the Troi dl Dialog branches off to the left (Trail No. 6). Follow Trail No. 6 along the ridge of Col de Flam for around 200 metres until you reach the Chiesa di S. Giacomo. This is located in a clearing in the forest, which offers a view of the imposing Sassolungo group: A view like a painting and one of the most beautiful photo spots in the whole of Val Gardena.

Dialog trail in Ortisei Zoom
The Troi dl Dialog leads pleasantly uphill via Col de Flam towards the Chiesa di S. Giacomo.
St Jacob’s Church Zoom
The Chiesa di S. Giacomo is the oldest church in Val Gardena and a wonderful place to visit.
photo

Stage 2: S. Giacomo - Seceda middle station

Follow Trail No. 6 uphill through the forest until you reach the Balest viewpoint at an altitude of 1,823 metres. Towards the north, steep scree slopes descend into the Val d'Anna. In between you can see the ruins of the excavated Stetteneck Castle on an elevation –– one of the historic sites along the Troi Paian.

From Balest, take Trail No. 8 downhill over scree slopes beneath steep rock faces until you reach the forest again. The path leads to the Furnes alp, where the middle station of the Seceda cable car is located.

This first section is the steepest and most strenuous of the entire hike. If you want to skip this part, you can take the Seceda cable car directly to the middle station and start the hike from here.

View from Balest Zoom
From Balest you can see the Odle peaks, the rocks of the Seceda and the entire Rasciesa Forest.
Rocks near Balest Zoom
From Balest, the Troi Paian leads slightly downhill below the rocks to the middle station of the Seceda cable car.
photo

Stage 3: Middle station - Village of Laion

From the middle station, take Trail No. 8 northwards. You will quickly reach the Cuecenes stream. Cueciun is Ladin and means ‘red’. There is a reason why this area was named after this colour: the sedimentary rocks below the Seceda are reddish in colour. This is the Val Gardena sandstone.

A narrow bridge crosses the stream and you continue uphill to Col Ciarnacei, where valuable artefacts have been found.

From here, the trail is easy to follow, as the Troi Paian stays more or less at a constant altitude, cutting across the Rasciesa Forest. You’ll walk for around 3 km along Trail No. 8, soaking up the tranquillity and magic of the forest, letting your thoughts wander. Focus is needed again as the descent begins, leading to the "Katzenleiter" (Cat’s Ladder). This unique section involves a short rock step, where sure-footedness is required.

hiking trail through the forest of Rasciesa Zoom
The path of the Troi Paian through the Rasciesa Forest is varied, beautiful and effortless.
photo

The path then becomes easier again and leads through the woods below Rasciesa. The marked Trail No. 8 leads you first to the former Ranatschhof farm (1413 m), which appears again and again in historical records.

To continue the hike to Laion, follow Trail No. 8 briefly along the road and then turn right onto Trail No. 8A. This leads past the Soragomp farmstead and continues westwards to "Noflatsch" (1,447 m). From here the descent begins via Trail No. 34 to Ceves before you reach the village of Laion.

Return to Ortisei by bus No. 351, which takes you directly there.

Village Laion Zoom
Our hike over the Troi Paian finally ends in the picturesque village of Laion.
photo

Historical facts

Along the Troi Paian trail, you can not only enjoy nature but also learn a lot about its past. The Troi Paian was a trade route that connected the Valle Isarco with the iron mine in Livinallongo del Col di Lana in Belluno. This was located near Fursil, at the foot of Monte Pore near today's Colle Santa Lucia.

Some of the oldest artefacts in Val Gardena were found along this route. These include the bronze dagger discovered on Balest in 1830. It is attributed to the early phase of the Urnfield culture in the late Bronze Age. The dagger was dated to around 800 BC and can still be admired today in the Museum Gherdëina.

It is also assumed that trade was carried out at Col Cianacei. It is assumed that cattle markets were held here. Not far away, near Furnes, the remains of ovens have been found. In Italian, ‘forno’ means oven.

Insider tip

The village of Laion can also be reached via an alternative hiking route from Ortisei via the idyllic Poststeig Trail. This hike leads through enchanting forests and offers marvellous views of the Dolomites. Ideal for nature lovers looking for a varied route.

Maps

  • Tabacco No.05, Val Gardena. The Tabacco maps are also available via the app.
  • AV map No. 52/I