Sport Climbing in Val Gardena

The Dolomites are not only a uniquely beautiful destination for skiing, hiking or mountain biking. The mountains, famous for their spectacular peaks, are also very popular with climbers in the summer months. Sport climbing has a long tradition here. Historic routes await you in an alpine ambience, where your efforts are rewarded with breathtaking views. The Dolomites are varied and offer long, short, easy, difficult, technical and all other types of climbing routes on which you can prove your skills. In addition to the climbing areas in Val Gardena, you can reach numerous others in the neighbouring valleys from the villages in Val Gardena.

Facts: Sport climbing in Val Gardena

1. In Val Gardena and the entire Dolomites you will climb almost exclusively on slab limestone and dolomite, a very hard and splintery rock popular with sport climbers.
2. May to October are the ideal months for sport climbing in Val Gardena. However, the Dolomites are also known for being noticeably cold in spring and autumn.
3. More than 300 days of sunshine a year make Val Gardena and the Dolomites a wonderful climbing destination that offers you the best conditions for sport climbing with great views.
4. In Val Gardena and the neighbouring valleys there are hundreds of traditional sport climbing routes of all levels of difficulty, which guarantee variety and new challenges.
5. The Dolomites offer you a unique alpine ambience. Spend an unforgettably beautiful climbing holiday in an extraordinary mountain range with unmistakable character.

Climbing guide: Recommendations

• "Sportklettern in Südtirol" - ISBN: 8898495145
• "Sportclimbing 4 Gröden" - ISBN: 8895211375
• APP: www.vertical-life.info

Several climbing gardens with varied routes await you in Val Gardena. Seura Sass in Santa Cristina delights with a magnificent view over the Dolomite valley. Would you like to spend a quiet climbing day away from the hustle and bustle? Then the small rock face of Bernardi near Selva is a great choice. Near the Passo Gardena, Frea awaits you with a variety of routes. And of course, the Città dei Sassi at the Passo Sella should be on your itinerary. Nearby is the Col Rodella climbing garden, which gives you a view of the Val di Fassa. For experienced sport climbers, the routes in the Cogoi-Pian Schiavaneis area are also ideal. Here we introduce you to the climbing gardens in Val Gardena:

Bernardi

The Bernardi climbing garden could be described as small but mighty. It is close to Selva and located in the middle of the forest. Because of this shady location, it is an ideal climbing area for hot summer days. The entrance area of the wall is covered with grass – a welcome change from the usual dust. The wall is 10-15 metres high and offers 12 comparatively short routes.

• Ascent: 10 min
• Routes: 12
• Difficulties: 6b - 7b
• Wall height: 10 - 15 m
• Rock: limestone
• Orientation: NE

Città dei Sassi

The Città dei Sassi at the Passo Sella is an impressive, natural climbing area at the foot of the Sassolungo. In this climbing paradise, you will find about 175 routes from 3 to 9. Families with children and beginners in particular will get their money's worth here. The up to 30-metre-high boulders were formed over 100,000 years ago by a huge rockfall. The dolomite rock is pleasantly grippy. The nearest car park is at the Passo Sella, only 5-15 minutes away from the rock.

• Ascent: 5 - 20 min
• Routes: 175
• Difficulties: 3a - 7c
• Altitude: 2180 m
• Rock: Kalk
• Orientation: N / E / S / W

Frea

The Frea climbing area on the Sella massif is located near the Gardena Pass. Since the climbing garden is arranged on "floors", you can climb several pitches directly one after the other. Frea captivates with its alpine character. The sun shines in the evening, which is why you can climb here even if you are not an early riser.

• Ascent: 10 min
• Routes: 113
• Difficulties: 4a - 7c
• Altitude: 2100 m
• Rock: Dolomite
• Orientation: NW

Cogoi – Pian Schiavaneis

Cogoi-Pian Schiavaneis is located below the Passo Sella in the direction of the Val di Fassa. Amid a wonderfully peaceful alpine area, you will find around 62 routes of varying difficulty. If you love steep and athletic climbing, you will get your money's worth here. A special feature is that you can get very close to numerous near-tame marmots here. A flat meadow invites you to play and rest.

• Ascent: 5-10 min
• Routes: 62
• Difficulties: 5b - 8c
• Altitude: 35 m
• Rock: limestone
• Orientation: S / SE

Seura Sass

You can reach the Seura Sass climbing garden from S. Cristina by car in the direction of Cristauta. The climbing area offers an idyllic picture-perfect setting that is second to none. A special treat is "The Zanzis", a 30-metre wall facing south. The climbing area is highly appreciated for its panoramic view over the Sciliar, Sassolungo and Sella and for its excellent protection. However, the ascent takes a little longer.

• Ascent: 50 min
• Routes: 13
• Difficulties: 5b - 7c
• Altitude: 2000 m
• Rock: Dolomite
• Orientation: S

La Cava

La Cava climbing garden is located just before Ortisei, coming from the direction of the Brenner motorway. Once used as a quarry, the area now offers about 35 routes of varying difficulty. Climbing is done on porphyry rock on natural ledges and artificially drilled holes. The location of La Cava is very sunny, which is why it is possible to climb here even shortly after a rain shower. The more difficult routes require strong bouldering skills. As far as the location and the routes are concerned, you will certainly find nicer climbing gardens in Val Gardena, but a detour to this climbing garden is still worthwhile.

Attention: La Cava climbing garden is closed until further notice by order of the mayor due to the danger of falling rocks!

Practice rock: Busc dl Preve

The Busc dl Preve climbing crag is located near Selva. It is a very well-secured sport climbing crag with some easy routes. The area is popular with families and beginners. Climbing courses are also often held here. The nearest car park is the one at Vallunga. After climbing, the Ciampac Hut welcomes you with delicious cuisine and a children's playground.

• Ascent: 10 min
• Routes: 12
• Difficulties: 3a - 6a
• Wall height: 10 - 25 m
• Rock: Dolomite
• Orientation: W

Alpine sport climbing requires the utmost concentration and perfect teamwork. In Val Gardena and its surroundings, there are numerous well-secured alpine multi-pitch routes, such as the Traumpfeiler near Plan de Gralba. Here you will find technically challenging routes with short and wide hook distances, which demand a little more, especially for the lead climber. Another wall area with well-secured routes is the south wall of the first Sella tower. There, the route "Delenda Carthago" (6b) is a beautiful classic with six great pitches. Other routes there are "Icterus" (7a), "Dr. Scintilla" (6a+) and "The Bernards" (7b). Behind the Sella Pass rises the spectacular Piz Ciavazes south face with numerous alpine sport climbing routes secured with bolts. Particularly worth mentioning are the routes: "Roberta 83" (7a+), "Baci da Honolulu" (7b+) and the "Priz" (7b).

Traumpfeiler

As early as 1984, "Catores" began to bore into the Traumpfeiler. The routes with several pitches and promising names like "Traumschiff" or "Traumfänger", are rated rather hard. Climbers should feel comfortable in the 8th grade and in alpine terrain. The routes on the Traumpfeiler are suitable for experienced slab specialists who can handle vertical and slightly overhanging wall climbing with complex moves. The rock is described by many climbers as fantastically pitted and compact. Next to the dream pillar are the two sectors "Waterfall" ("Cansla") and "Woodstock", which also offer beautiful climbing on slabs with holes. This area is not suitable for families with children.

• Ascent: 10 - 15 min
• Routes: 20
• Difficulties: 6a+ bis 8a+
• Altitude:2000 m
• Rock: Dolomite
• Orientation: SW

Climbing guide: Recommendation

• "Climbing in Val Gardena" - ISBN: 8868392259

In bad weather or for training purposes, bouldering and climbing halls are useful alternatives.

Ortisei bouldering hall

In the Ortisei Tennis Centre, there is a boulder hall with a bouldering area of 220 m² and a height of 4 m (Tel. +39 0471 797275). The hall has a changing room and showers. There is a bar and pizzeria in the sports centre. The bouldering difficulties range from easy to very difficult.

Selva Climbing Hall

In the centre of Selva, on Nivesplatz, there is a climbing hall with 320 m² of climbing space and a height of 12 metres. Here you can choose from about 25 routes ranging in difficulty from 4a to 7c+. In addition, the Nives climbing hall (tel. +39 0471 794133) offers climbing courses to learn or perfect climbing techniques as well as belay and fall courses.

More climbing gyms in South Tyrol

In recent years, climbing gyms have been built all over South Tyrol, offering you and your family plenty of variety. The Salewa Cube in Bolzano, which is open all year round, is the largest climbing hall in Italy. The Vertikale climbing hall in Brixen is aimed at climbers and boulderers of all generations. The Heliks climbing centre in Bruneck lets you climb in a pleasantly cooled hall in summer.

Val Gardena offers you an ideal infrastructure for your climbing holiday. Thanks to mobility cards and mountain railways, you can reach most of the climbing gardens without a car. You can easily rent equipment on-site.

Hardly any sport is as varied as climbing. If you want to go on a via ferrata with friends and family members or take a day off climbing, there are plenty of activities and excursion destinations in Val Gardena for a varied alternative programme.